samedi 13 janvier 2018

the Art of Sewing

« The Sewing Circle Rethread »  gathered 23 Artists exploring the beauty of needlework in the arts and crafts at the Saint Pancras gallery in Camdem.  
It is a very nice collective show to be part off, as a lot of artists are also friends, and it is like a family exhbition where the atmosphere is warm and kind.  

At the opening, I choose a red black & white look mixing  cow & zebras for an hybrid animal style. 
picture by Richard Kaby 

Look at me in the eyes by Michele Martinoli 
On a orange fury fabric base,  hand stitched  vintage dolls eyes adorned with beads & pearls  the best part is that the open and close, winking at you! 

By Anthony Lycett 
I realised this statement & uncanny neckpiece during many night shoot of extra work on set in order not to waste my time.  It is funny to see the other Supporting Artists reacting to work, even the costume team intrigued, asking me what I am doing. Someone even though I was making a mat for my toilet because of the semi-circular shape! Sewing work is often depreciated as it is associated with woman's craft or household task.  A laddish guy thinking he was making a fun joke  told me "when you finish with this, can  you sew back the button of my shirt?"  as if it would make me happy, comparing my practice to mundane  uncreative task. as if you see a painter and you come to ask him "could you come to paint my kitchen?".  

collection of jewellery by Richard Kaby 
I find very interesting that an exhbition focus on sewing work at it is often considered as minor art.  
First, it is the best technique to use to create wearable art the the use of thread & needle in the strongest  technique to keep element together compared to glue.  It takes more time but the effect is just better & stronger.  

Toy matriarchy headpiece by Richard Kaby 
Textiles and embroidery, traditionally dominated by women, have long been perceived as inferior to other art forms due to the privileging of masculine spaces.
the words “textile” and “text,” coming  from the Latin word textus, means “fabric,” “connection,” and “interwoven.” Our culture evolved in such a way that it was mostly men who interwove words to create texts, as words and language became carriers of power and law. The interweaving of threads was reduced to “women’s” work, an unexceptional craft compared with the intellectual “weaving of words.” Its function – to decorate and to provide warmth and comfort – was synonymous with the role assigned to women in traditional cultures. Despite the technical complexity and visual richness of some textile and embroidery techniques, because of the word “feminine” these works were not considered on par with painting. The dominant “masculinity” of painting is evidenced, in particular, by the use of the words “writing” and “reading” with regard to paintings.

"The devil is in the details " all handstitched one by one by Richard Kaby 

Embroidery and textile are becoming increasing popular mediums in contemporary world art. But in conservative societies, embroidery and textile are still perceived as having decorative functions and are presented as women’s hobbies in which ready patterns are merely copied, thus having a somewhat discriminatory connotation.

✨the dolls goddess & and her sphinx ✨ introducing my new partner in crime 😻Bonnie😻 wearing dolls head adorned with gold rhinestones neckshrine made for @suekreitzman
picture By Anthony Lycett 

November was marked by a new addition to the family, our Birman cat Bonnie who have been the new victim of our photographic experiments. I like the combination on the picture the dolls hair and cat fur hat give a feral dimension to the piece.   
Hand-stitched glamourous shrinking heads on golden beads oriental style base. 

by Richard Kaby 
Later during the month a "meet the artists gathering" was an opportunity to view and buy artworks as well as meet and chat within a gathering of vibrant colours in fabric and fashions. 
I was wearing a female clown costume as an everyday life dress. I love he idea of wearing a costume theatre as an daily basis dress in order to blur the line between life and performance! 

presenting to Sue Kreitzman my golden barbie head neckshrine worshiping her as a colourful goddess by Richard Kaby 
details of hours of endless golden beads hand-stitching By Anthony Lycett 

 Each dolls had been adorned by golden Swarovski crystals on the face and beads and sequins hand-stitched around their pony tail.  
golden dolls head worshiping their arty goddess by Richard Kaby 

Clown dress accessorised with a pink hair mermaid headpiece & "tour de France" bicycle necklace.  picture by Richard Kaby 

A friend tagged me on a Facebook status of someone offering a full bin mag of mermaid toys given to her local charity shop. They couldn't sell it in the charity as toy as they didn't have the CE label. I jumped on the opportunity and on my bike to collect the precious non conforming goods which was gold for me.  I didn't anticipated it will be so many so after walking few hundreds meter with the 3 full bins bags alongside my bike, I had to resolve myself to call my boyfriend to pick me up in the car.  

outfit details by Richard Kaby 

with Florent Bidois by Richard Kaby 

by Richard Kaby 

Meeting the amazing  Louise Joelle at November colour walk
pink & yellow is my favourite colours combinations like in Jacques Demy Demoiselles de Rochefort.
picture  by Richard Kaby 

traditionnal duo picture with Sue Kreitzman by Richard Kaby 

by Richard Kaby 

I created this kitsch colourful mermaid looks by stitching some dolls on a pink feather boa, headpieces and using the tails as earrings.

with dolls head headpiece, have some multiples heads coming out of your headBy Anthony Lycett 

Each month bring its batch of in unique Self.styled portraits stolen from the original project., this time it was to Reckless to play the game. 

psychedelic ikea furniture necklace By Anthony Lycett 

I love the contrast between the  tough gangsta attitude and super fluffy outrageously pink & girly my little pony necklace, the art of redefining masculinity

even badass rapper 🎤🎧 can rock a cute kawaii my little pony  necklace ✨available on my online shop 👉🏻 among my new Christmas 🎄 collection ✨ the great @recklezzisprimo shoot for @self.styled

alternative fashion shoot for Toksick Magazine styled by Ane Kruse where kids wear my designs like dinosaur jackets & necklace, little car necklace & flamingo outfit.  find the all shoot HERE 

I lend some of my pieces to the stylist and Kruse who I collaborated before and she combined it with some high fashion street wear Fields of pony clothing and Vivienne Westwood pieces.
She used her kids as model (never to young to start working!) and I like the idea to children to wear adult size clothes for a cheeky,  falsely  lay back urban style result.  

wearing little car necklace & dino jacket 

Photographer: Nicola Favaron @nicolafavaron | Talent: Mathilda and Gabriel | Make-up and hair: Rosie McGinn @rosieeemua | Stylist: Ane Kruse @anekru

mardi 2 janvier 2018

get married in Sophie Cochevelou

Making a wedding dress is one of the most difficult piece to make, not only because of the technicality and skills you have to implement  but  also because of the pressure and the emotional charge it involves.  

I saw more myself as a costume designer than a wedding dress maker but I took on the challenge of making 3 wedding dress with very different style last year.  
The common point between them was that the brides were looking for something different, unique, a bit quirky that they wouldn't find in any wedding dress shop.  

Every bride is dreaming of the perfect princess dress, 
You are supposed to just get married once, and it will be immortalised on pictures as the outfit you worn on the best day of their life.  

You want something that fit you like a glove, and will make you look stunning.  
Fitting can be tricky as bride want to loose wait for the D-Day.  Some bride ask you to make the dress smaller than what they are at the moment but they don't loose the wait they expect and some other melt like an ice-cream under the sun, involving lot of retouching & adjustments.  

The devil is in the detail, I made for the groom a pocket stripe assorted to the pattern of the dress 

hours and hours of hand stitching of the golden sequins here helped by Ariana Davis 

Bride are sometimes very insecure about their body image, they don't know what shape fit their morphology.  But when you do fitting and you see  pride in their eye, that they straighten up, that they forget their complexes and feel fabulous,  you know you won. This is the most beautiful thing in in your job, something that give a meaning to what you are doing, make people feel beautiful and special.  

The wedding planner wanted me to reproduce the guest book dress I have done as a performance for a wedding at number 90.  

I designed this structural dress based on white themed inspired by Lady Gaga's futuristic dress, origami style and imitating the shape of the folding of books page. For the structure, I integrated gardening netting inside the material in order to create a rigid structure for the guest to be able to write on the dress with a fabric marker.  

They asked to the guest stop leave a love message or sign  directly writing on the dress and everybody littles one and grown-ups , got really into writing on the congrats book! 

by Anthony Lycett
Bride to be wouldn't come to me for the classical  traditional minimalistic white dress or super puffy meringue dress you can see in the TV show fat gypsy wedding.  
Wedding dress in shop as extremely codify and even champagne is a big  extravaganza.  

by Anthony Lycett 
Kate came to me recommended by a friend because she want a gold sequin dress.  

Obviously I though it was an amazing idea before I realise that sewing by hand one by one a selection of different sequins from copper colour to golden rose would be a epic work! 
by Anthony Lycett

Jessie found me through instagram, she messages me "I saw your instagram and I want you to make my wedding dress". 
I find it quite scary & flattering at the same time. 
We met for coffee and she explained to me she went to see a lot of people before me and they were saying it wasn't possible to make what she wanted. " you need a costume designer not a dress maker" for this.  

She send me a mood board for the dress,  a mix between oriental Indian style and 50s style Dior inspiration, with a bustier with a marked waist and  a very bulky skirt with several layers.  

Coral colour bustier was made to measure.  I find some embroidered ornament in Indian shop that I embellished with shade of pink sequins. The skirt is made of several embroidered Indian sequins sawn together on a metallic garden wire structure in order to create the volume. 

 A massive bow embellished with beads at the back added to the girly and lady Dior aesthetic for a blond thousand and one night princess.  

Jessie told me she had a round of applause and standing ovation when she entered the church.  It make me so happy to think that my design can provokes theses kind of emotions. It is like an happy ending fairy tales, when the collaboration goes well and you can contribute to make an event special.  

I like the the combination of the colourful dress dress with Scottish kilt as it doesn't look like a conventional wedding.  

I think what the bride to be liked with me is that they could go design the dress, make it unique and choose themselves every single detail and I would make happen  (as far as possible) what hey had in mind. 

For Olivia the idea was to reproduce an exiting dress  inspired by Valentino design with embroidered flowers, for a classy chic pastoral aesthetic.  
made a champagne base with with delicate lace, and embroideries flower. 

I realised it is very important to include the bride in every steps of the creative process, to give her update in order not to go in the wrong direction, to go too far and have to start again. 
When so much is at stake, they hate surprise effect.  

For example, Olivia was very indecisive and changed her mind a lot about the colour of the skirt, the position and the number of the flowers… When you make a wedding dress you don't only have to please the bride, but the all family environment, the mother, the sister, the fiancé.  You have to distinguish what the family want from what the bride really want for herself.  

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