lundi 24 novembre 2014

Disapproved by Paul Smith

picture by Tania Olive 

One of the craziest request I ever had; "I would like a fake grass skirt" with all my animal farm of when I was a kid stitched on it", do you think it is possible?  -Yes of course (at this precise moment I had no idea of how I will do it but I like challenges). 

Mood board, yes I an not the only one crazy person to have created a fake grass outfit! 
picture by Tania Olive 
First i had to find the best fake grass in a carpet shop (imagine the face of the sales assistant when I said it was for a skirt and not for my garden).  Fortunately I had the expertise of Vanessa Murell a very good pattern cutter and the help of Petita Lachatrose.  I
picture by Tania Olive 
It was quite an unusual material to work with, heavy, quite hard to stitch in and very messy (I had bits fake grass all over my place).  I love the idea to divert the purpose of the fake grass and turn the human body into a walking landscape.  

A week end on the country side?  I have thd perfect outfit for you 
twins miniature  barbie earrings available on my online shop 

dinosaur necklace available on my online shop 
picture by Tania Olive 
picture by Tania Olive 

I've already made a fairy tale necklace for Sue Kreitzman ( see previous post on my blog and instagram picture).  

To match the necklace I created this pink castle headpiece (a dolls castle found in a pound shop that I turned into a hat).  I was inspired by Isabelle Blow crazy headpiece and a hero from my childhood, "Motordu Prince"  who wears a castle on his head (in French a "chateau" instead of a "chapeau") 

picture by Tania Olive 

On this one I use the baroque element decoration, the cute princesses figurines, magic props & objects, lots of gems and glitter in order to create my own fairy tale. I like to create pieces that tells a story.  

picture by Tania Olive 

picture by Tania Olive 

This is the new piece I made for Sue Kreitzman, a Mexican aesthetic with beads & pearl on a leather base plastron. 
picture by Tania Olive 
 I found theses miniature dolls with a soft body on which I could embroider heterogenous objects and beads in order to turn them  turn into Sabbath Queen and Mexican & Aztec Goddesses.  
picture by Tania Olive 
Baroque Cancan necklace available on my online shop 
Bar 90 organised a club and a movie night around the documentary about "Bar 25" a famous club in Berlin throwing very extravagant parties which had to shut.  

"Pearl Goddess" by Damien Frost 

The invited circus artists and I though it was an occasion to experiment further with my white dress performance (read the article on my blog). I designed this more circusy totally white costume. 

"Pearl Goddess" by Damien Frost 
To play on the concept of white I create this white version of Frida Kahlo headpiece and instead of putting my pearl necklace around my neck, I pinned them to my headpiece (you need a lot of pins!)  to shift their normal position. I also created to pearl eyebrows to become  a "Pearl Goddess".  
The headpiece is a mosquito net  found by my Mum in a charity shop.  I wanted to turn into my own Circus tent! 
"Pearl Goddess" by Damien Frost 
The idea was to turn the outfit of the sad clown, the Pierrot in the Moonlight into a more flamboyant circus costume through the interaction with the audience covering it with paint & glitters.  

The  First reaction was  "Are you sure you want to ruin your dress It would broke my heart".   But I felt it was  the  purpose of it, linking to the tragic destiny of this Berlin club. This is the essence of performance, the luxury and the generosity of the ephemeral show which in a twinkle of an eye,  destruct a beautiful costume that took ages to make. From flamboyance to decadence.  

Fashion shoot styled by Gianfranco Colla in a Kitsch and pop aesthetic using 70s floral background: 

Ken & Barbie necklace and barbie hands earrings available on my online shop 

Barbie brooch 

My monopoly necklace 

Miniature Lego headpiece 

Pink hair barbie necklace available on my online shop 

Barbie & Ken love necklace available on my online shop 

Lego earrings and ring available on my online shop 

As always to finish, the Info point. This week I am in the French magazine, Le Point about London.  The comment is the more stupid I've never read. Paul Smith is just an old man that doesn't understand anything to the 21st century trends, he is the flagship of a boring, conformist and commercial fashion arousing all the  brainwashing prejudices of mainstream fashion magazines.  

At least it provoked debate around my Facebook community who praised individual style and celebrated self expression so I am happy to say that "disapproved by Paul Smith" is my new trademark…and also I am just next to the queen! 

mardi 18 novembre 2014

My little pony dress

picture by Jesus Rodriguez model Vanessa Murell see the picture on my instagram gallery 
I have a fascination of Mylittlepony.  I have very kitsch  and regressive tastes, for me it is not bad taste, it is just I kept my little girl taste.  I like pink, glitter, shiny, maximalism…I have a fascination for  discarded objects, In my work I am trying to give them some legitimacy and nobility.  It is a lot about humour, and using kitsch with wit, not at face value by diverting the function of  quirky objects.  

picture by Jesus Rodriguez model Vanessa Murell 

In his book "The Unbearable lightness of Being"  Kundera define the concept of the Kitsch as this thing that is wrapped by  tradition, collective collective unthinking  or mass culture in a veil of beauty or ugliness, something that makes serious things lighter.  I think this is what I am trying to achieve in my work. Life is hard and the world is not always all colourful. My creations are deprived of any political statement, they are made of very silly objects. They are  just a celebration of life, colours and creativity. But at the same time, there is  something disturbing in my work that show that there is "something rotten in the kingdom of capitalism".  

picture by Jesus Rodriguez 
Vanessa spotted this glittery background at Marcella Hair Salon (check the facebook page). The owner of the place kindly let us invading her space for our cosmic & psychedelic photo shoot.

 At the Alternative miss world event someone asked me if i knew about the Bronies, this community of men that love my little pony and dress like them.  So I watched the documentary on youtube  and felt closely connected with theses people.
Why are we so fascinated by my little pony?  For me, it was something quite ironic at first. 
I my dress it was away of  taking the symbol of cuteness & kawaii and divert its function.  But thinking more deeply about it I realise my little pony is a real phenomena  that pinpoints something of the era that we live in. 
 In a context of social &economic crisis, brownies  are putting themselves in reassuring world surrounded by  very cute things like my little pony, barbies, dolls, sugar colour,  pastel & kawaii aesthetic, with a cartoon that convey very positive value like friendship.  

'It’s innocence, it’s fun, it’s colourful, it’s, you know, it’s a nice escape from the grey world as it were for the time being and it brings me joy,' says 48-year-old brony, Neil.

Rainbow hair & pastel photography, holographic colour is the new trend! 

Great discovery of this very kawaii and girly brand via Sarainlove blog, Dolls eyes, playing with cuteness and PVC material.  The kind of design where you tell yourself "Why I haven't done it before them?" 

check there facebook page, you will be mesmerised! 

On of the main inspiration to create the dress: a my little pony coat 

Wearing the my little pony dress at Alternative miss world with Emma Zarafi & Emily Howard. 

A great drawing Emma Zarafi made inspired by my costume at Alternative Miss World

picture by Jesus Rodriguez
My idea was to create a dress with my little pony cryogenically frozen in the ice to conserve them and keep them for later when the mylittlepony specie will be extinct.  
I played with the transparency, the optical  illusion to have the my littlepony trapped in crystal ice. 
For the transparent base, I used my transparent Lego one for my performance at the Barbican (it is always heart breaking to dismantle a dress space in London and coast of material make you forget about a potential retrospective exhibition of your work at the V&A) 

The creative process was making lot of little surprise bag with a magic little pony recipe: a little pony toy ,a pinch of glitters and few colourful beads , close the bag and stitch it to the transparent base with the hula-hopp boning.  A lot of work done with Vanessa Murrel and Bruna Ignatowska

picture by Jesus Rodriguez

I saw Vanessa  (follow her on instagram) for the first time at the canteen of Central Saint Martins last year when I cam back to help my friend with a project, You can miss the charismatic girl with her blue hair, her big eyes, a reflection of her strong personality and her very individual style.  I felt she would be perfect to embody this dress as the new face of kawaïi and hyperjapan style! 
picture by Jesus Rodriguez

picture by Jesus Rodriguez
dinosaur necklace, sailor latex outfit & rainbow hair, the perfect combo! 
picture by Jesus Rodriguez

picture by Jesus Rodriguez 

dinosaurs necklace available on my online shop 

picture by Jesus Rodriguez

dinosaurs earrings available on my online shop 

bracelet available on my online shop 

picture by Jesus Rodriguez

picture by Jesus Rodriguez 
barbie arms necklace available on my online shop

picture by Jesus Rodriguez

"eternal sunshine of the spotless mind" picture by Jesus Rodriguez

Frida Kahlo inspired flower crown with cancan barbie legs, pink and purple shoes, styled with some of Vanessa Murrell design & creations.  A more organic look surrounded by fallen leaves.  
picture by Jesus Rodriguez

Info point: featured in Valeurs Actuelles, French newspaper about young French people leaving the country, I have to say I found at lot of amazing opportunities here in London and meet extraordinary people! 
Read the online version here 

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