mardi 29 septembre 2015

Colourful summer

by Gilles Cochevelou 
This summer, For our annual electro party Kervinoize in my Bunker in Brittany the theme was Alibaba and the forty thieves so I made this Arabian Night costume  am ix between a post-modern belly dancer and a alternative Queen of Sabbath. 

By Gilles Cochevelou 

 I liked to work around the accumulation of golden chains and beads as an oriental ornament. 

By Gilles Cochevelou 

by Gilles Cochevelou 

This year in Brittany, the theme of the nautical rally was "The Birds". I found theses pink feathers from a headband New Look de-stoking at the Roman Road market and I made a headpiece and a necklace accessorised with some polystyrene birds for a roaring twenties look mixed with a venetian carnival aesthetic.    
Going to the beach in your swimming costume is too mainstream, I am going with my Chantal Thomas evening dress!

Just after I disembarked from Brittany, I have been embarked in a new crazy adventure with the House of Fairy Tales in Iron Bridge in the Midlands. 

picture by Rah Petherbridge

I had less than 24 hours to come up with a costume of time traveller inspired by Victorian era mixed with Jules Verne retro-futuristic aesthetic.  I used the base of my Marie Antoinette costume (picture on instagram) and I stitched 20 clocks I found in an Indian Pound shop (the guy was very surprised when I said I will take not one but 20 as I bought is all stock).  It was a proper race against the clock to sew them on all on the garment.  

"Racing through the multiverse, faster then the speed of light, The Time Travellers are on a Quest to help save the Tangled Strands of The Future.They are reaching the end of their hunt: the cosmic nexus has been detected, all roads lead them back to here – to the land of the Iron Bridge. The time has come for a great story to unfold. A story of mythic beasts, the faerie folk of the earth, the fearless ingenuity of humans and the intense and poisonous magic of the earth’s most precious possessions.

 After 5 hours of car and a night of camping I was in charge of the "Strategist" workshop. Becoming the story teller "Miss Tik Tok telling to children the story of a magical stone realising all the stories from the beginning of the universe.  

I can't count how many time someone have asked me "what time is it" and the only thing reply was "Even a broken clock says the right time twice a day". 

picture by Rah Petherbridge

With The artist Gavin Turk and Rebecca Curtis the founder of the charity the House of Fairy Tales 

picture by Rah Petherbridge

I am very please to be part of the regular entertaining team at the bar 90 which is now like a big family. For their Festival Summer Party, I did my Magic balls dress performance (see the link on this article)  assisted by the designer Alice Tiger, creating a 80s sporty colour block californian style in London!  

 With the Fabulus unicorn giving away candy and blowing bubbles. 

I lend my  "50 shades of Pink dress" (see the previous article on my blog) to the Feminist Artist Meg Mosley's for her residency at "The Art of Nuisance" Each artist was given ten days and resources to interpret this brief however they chose. The resulting work will be exhibited at the opening show on the 8th of October.

 Meg Mosley’s artwork offers a new aesthetic and exuberant appraisal of contemporary interaction inspired by mainstream celebrations that go into overdrive and popular pleasures that are usually excluded from academic art circles. In her work as ‘Megastar’ Mosley presents an exaggerated comedy persona and a means to embrace the diverse facets of beauty through: humour, empowerment, cultural pressure, enjoyment, bonding and as a ritual and transformation. 

 She uses performative strategies to delineate how, in this era of digital natives in a culture of social media and selfies, we perform many versions of ourselves and create our own narratives and identity.  Mosley playfully describes her current approach to the selfie as ‘selfie-facing’ and performative in opposition to being ‘self-effacing’ and modest. ‘Megastar’ is a product of our time a digital native of the selfie culture.

Through the dress Meg explores the complex issue of pinkification and hyper-feminization that paradoxically emerge as a new form of feminism. 

The magazine Old Tat asked me to write about a typical day of work.  My  life is not as glamourous as it seems on  Social media.The  majority of my time is spent alone frenetically stitching  wearing my pyjama without seeing the day light and going to bed at 10.30pm after watching the Voice.  So this is a typical but romanticised day! Read the article here 

A day with me for Old tat Magazine 

dimanche 30 août 2015

Lobster dress

I met the amazing performer Rachel  May Snider and she gave me the dream dress project.  
-"I know it is going to sounds weird but at the end of my show I am turning into a giant lobster, could you make a lobster dress?" 
-Of course I can make a lobster dress! 


I actually already made a lobster dress, (see the article here) .  I had theses lobster claw  from a meal in Brittany last year  and when my Mum wanted to throw them away I beg her to keep them (as I keep everything); After putting them in the bleach for a very long time I gold sprayed them and turned them into a dress.  
I was interested into incorporating some natural organic elements into one of my creations.  

I was inspired by the Alexander Mac Queen  exhibition Savage Beauty  at the V&A and his fascinating alchemy between futurism and primary beauty, like the Victorian Gothic, which combines elements of horror and romance.  
Alexander McQueen frequently returned to the theme of primitivism, which drew upon the fantasy of the noble savage living in harmony with the natural world, using raw material 
like  horse hair to make skirts, crocodile heads to adorn shoulders, leather to sheathe the body and feathers to catch the light.

The idea, like with the Fox costume  (see article here) wasn't to create a anthropomorphic costume of a giant animal  but to make a dress that refers to the lobster. my idea has to create a very glamourous base inspired by film Noir genre and 50's hollywood and add the structure of the lobster at the front like Tatty Devine necklace.  

The lobster symbolise women sexuality, like in Dali's lobster telephone. This surrealist object, made from the conjunction of items not normally associated with each other, create something both playful and menacing. Dalí believed that such objects could reveal the secret desires of the unconscious. But also vulnerability as the lobster shed their skin four times in his life, during this  transition time he is like naked and have to hide himself from predators.  

The lobster dress at Seven Sister Cliff By Anthony Lycett 
The lobster actually wears it skeleton upside down as his shell protect his soft body, so in the dress, the lobster was himself the skeleton,  the legs creating the shape of the rib cage.
 The lobster dress at Seven Sister Cliff By Anthony Lycett 
"Dressing for Breakfast" As the title say itself, the piece is about the art of dressing, not dressing up but getting dressed for any occasion, even to have your breakfast or go shopping at Tesco. 
The character says how clothes are like armours, because people notice you without seeing you so we can feel protected, 
Dressing for Breakfast 
I  can relate to Rachel character who is a proper dresser, she can't go out without choosing the perfect outfit from head to toes. Paradoxically enough, standing out by dressing flamboyant allow you to hide behind your clothes. You don't create another persona but you control the image you give to the others.  You give so much to them to read by bombarding them with vibrant colours that you can hide your true self behind your armours.  
In her show, Rachel came out with this surrealist and  brilliant idea that it will be simpler to have a life size cardboard doll, changing very easily with a cardboard for every occasion, like the vintage diving suit when you walk in the street and you meet someone you don't want to talk too.  

"A daughter discovers a shoe box filled with her mother's treasured cardboard doll and her array of historical cut out costumes...

In Dressing for Breakfast, Joan of Arc,  A Deep Sea Explorer, and Marie Antoinette are brought to life by performer Rachel Snider and costume designer Petra Storrs in an autobiographical piece exploring historical fantasies, the dance of lobsters and contemporary dressing rituals."

The lobster dress at Seven Sister Cliff By Anthony Lycett 

With my sketches, now it is time to make the vision happen!
I was lucky to have part of the process filmed by Sept à Huit for TF1 in the frame of a documentary on French people in London. You can see the documentary here

For the pattern I copied the anatomical  illustration  of the lobster.   

For the actual dress I didn't use any real lobster (didn't want the fishy smell during the show!).  The lobster structure is made out of foam.  Imagine the face of the sale man at the rubber & foam store  when I said to him I am going to use it for a lobster dress! 

I carved the shape of each part of the lobster body  into the foam.  
I covered the foam with red sequins fabric (using the same technique than for my heart dress) to give it a cabaret, showy and glamour look standing out from the black of the dress (this is not a colour palette I am usually using!) 

The dress took me two months to make, I started with the bustier, then I made the crinoline, they are like a big shell at the side covered by hand stitched pearls, crystals and white sequins like splinters of shell between Chanel and Pearly Queen inspirations.  Just one side of embroidery for the pearls and shell took an entire week!

The lobster dress at Seven Sister Cliff By Anthony Lycett 
In this video realised by Helen Jeunet, you can see me working on the lobster dress, stitching the sequin one by one! 

lundi 17 août 2015

Alien & non identified costumes

By Anthony Lycett 

Space invaders are back!
 Alien outfit with a jacket  originally created for the Bingo at Bar 90 made out with a bunch of tinsel wigs generously   given by my  and fabulous performer friend Yve BlakeLot of people also give stuff they don't want anymore to me "You who are creative, maybe you can do something with that" . For them it is a relief, for me a bless! 

by Anthony Lycett 
 She also gave me the eyeballs and I am wearing my Las Vegas Bingo necklace.  I worn this look for a Alien theme party @TheBox in Soho!

Frida Kahlo inspired bracelet available on my online shop, picture by Anthony Lycett 

With the designer Florent Bidois at Hackney Bingo Club at the Bar 90

By Anthony Lycett
Originally made for Butchers hair dressing salon on Hackney Road, using colourful long syntactical wigs for a more unicorn style. I thought it was nice to have a picture in location.
By Anthony Lycett 

With Anthony Lycett we found this beautiful wheat field in the Country side of Coventry  that become gold with the the sunset light. With my dress and my little pony head piece,  I become a mystical  hairy goddess of the harvest.

One of my last and exiting commission a golden frog wedding hat, witty and classy, very English style, I guess its owner will stole the spotlight from the bride!
By Anthony Lycett 

Japanese inspired shoot using my Moshi monster kimono styled by Naddy Sane and photographed by Meike Linthorst. I  love this experimental project, between art, photography, dance, fashion and performance! 

Last but not least, a new interview on Designers we like magazine see the full article here

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